Mountains on the Kyrgyz side of the Torugart Pass
T plus 30 - Kashgar to Bishkek
OK, so there are two options for the China to Kyrgyzstan border crossing.
1. Over the Irkeshtam Pass from Kashgar to Osh. This is the cheapest option where a bus will take you point-to-point (USD120). It's something like 22-25 hours in the bus, however. And you don't get a guide to smooth things over at the border crossing if you run into trouble (unlikely though). Also I was told that the bus from Kashgar may not depart if there are not enough passengers. A bus onwards (12-15 hours) to Bishkek from Osh is about USD50.
2. Over the Torugart Pass from Kashgar to Naryn. This is expensive (USD400), but if you are able to find other travellers to split the cost, it could come down to USD100 per person for a carload of four. Randomly finding fellow travellers is tough though - there aren't that many tourists in Kashgar. So unless you're travelling in a group, be prepared to pay. The upside is that dedicated Chinese and Kyrgyz guides will help you through the respective immigration points. A shared taxi (5 hours) from Naryn to Bishkek is about USD10.
In both cases, the best time to cross from China is on a Monday, where people are headed back from the Kashgar Sunday market. Or possibly Friday or Saturday if you're coming from Kyrgyzstan.
I found John's Information Café (www.johncafe.com, +869982581186 - speak to John directly) really useful for making arrangements for the Torugart Pass crossing and he'll hook you up with Mr. Kubat (kubat-tour@mail.ru, +996772689262) who'll pick you at the Kyrgyz side of the border and take you to Naryn (3 hours). The reverse journey is also possible - just contact Mr. Kubat first. Both guys are honest and dedicated operators and will go all the way to deliver. In Kashgar for example, I was the only passenger on the 30-seater private bus to the Chinese border, but John made it happen anyway.
All-in, I left Kashgar at 9.30am and arrived in Bishkek at 9.30pm. Exactly 12 hours for a border crossing which a lot of people complain about in forums. I didn't encounter any issues at all, although the roads in Kyrgyzstan were pretty dire. The incredible scenery made up for it though.
Apologies for the slightly shoddy quality. All taken through a dirty car/bus window while having my teeth shaken loose.
Part of the beautiful Tien Shan Mountain Range on the Chinese side.
You can just about pick out the moon in the top photo.
You can just about pick out the moon in the top photo.
From Top: the long line of freight trucks waiting to get into the Chinese side; the mid-point of the border crossing which is occupied by both Chinese and Kyrgyz border guards; the soviet-era building which houses the Kyrgyz immigration check-point. Sorry, no photos allowed.
Top: Kids flagging down cars to sell vegetables (Kyrgyz side)
Bottom: A series of pack-up-able countryside cabins which reflect the nomadic nature of the Kyrgyz people.
Bottom: A series of pack-up-able countryside cabins which reflect the nomadic nature of the Kyrgyz people.
The sigh-it's-so-pretty landscape of Kyrgyzstan. Unlike China, who build their highways around the mountains, or blow them up to make way, the Kyrgyz roads carve their way through a series of valleys and mountain-sides which offer spectacular, unspoilt panoramas. I've never seen so many horses in my life!
Be warned: being driven on these roads is like participating in the World Rally Championships with Collin McRae in the driver's seat. 1/3 of the way from Naryn to Bishkek is on a dirt trail. Although it's being paved as we speak. Most cars will stick to the "good part" of the road, which is usually one car-width. Like a pre-coordinated game of "chicken", these guys will drive headlong into each other and veer apart at the last minute. Which can be slightly unnerving, but you'll get used to it.
Be warned: being driven on these roads is like participating in the World Rally Championships with Collin McRae in the driver's seat. 1/3 of the way from Naryn to Bishkek is on a dirt trail. Although it's being paved as we speak. Most cars will stick to the "good part" of the road, which is usually one car-width. Like a pre-coordinated game of "chicken", these guys will drive headlong into each other and veer apart at the last minute. Which can be slightly unnerving, but you'll get used to it.
