"Isfahan nesf-e jahan" - a 17th century Persian proverb translated as "Isfahan is half the world". Such was the allure and the unbridled magnificence of this city. At its prime, 400 years ago, Esfahan was larger than London and a sparkling symbol of the affluence and dominance of the Safavid dynasty.
Although Persian history spans almost 2,500 years, most of modern Iran's cultural and architectural heritage stem from the Safavid period (1501-1725). It was Shah Abbas I who ushered in the golden age of this dynasty, ruling over an empire which spanned all of Iran, the Caspian Sea region, Iraq, Afganistan, parts of Turkey, Syria, Pakistan and Central Asia. The Shah made Esfahan his capital in 1598 and funneled the wealth and creative talents of his vast empire into building a showcase worthy of its European contemporaries.
For example, Imam Square, the centrepiece of the Shah's capital still stands today as one of the largest city squares in the world. Flanked on either side by the soaring Masjid-e-Shah, and a centuries-old bazaar, Imam Square continues to function today as the city's focal point for religious worship, commercial trade and public congregations. In the past, the Shahs of Persia had used the enormous space as a polo arena; today families gather for picnics on the same grounds which once echoed with thundering hooves.
Esfahan is presently Iran's second largest city, with about 3 million inhabitants. It is a fantastic place to spend a couple of days to visit Iran's big-ticket sights, and also to soak-up the atmosphere of the country's symbolic cultural capital. Like everywhere else in Iran, the people of Esfahan are overwhelmingly accommodating, and one will most likely end-up with more than a few new friends.
Some photos from my walkabouts:
Top pic: A boy thinking outside the box on his bike.
Bottom pic: A girl wading through the waters after a family picnic by the square.
Bottom pic: A man wanders through the many arched walkways of Masjid-e Shah.
Bottom pic: Youths literally hanging-out on the bridge.
1/5 shutter speed to achieve the right balance between exposure time to get the arc of fire, while keeping the guy's face in focus.