T plus 66 - Kashan
Ok, so not many people have heard of this place. Most give it a miss as they head from Tehran to Esfahan or Shiraz. But it's a wonderfully charming old city where you can take great pleasure in getting lost while weaving your way through its maze of ancient alleyways lined with beautifully restored 19th-century mansions. Its main bazaar is less of a business-first, business-only place like Tehran's behemoth of a commercial site, and more of a place where families go to wander, sit in the caravanserais and chill out.
While in Kashan, you can choose to stay in a centuries-old house, restored of course, which comes with its own courtyard, flowing water features, and a basement to insulate oneself from the heat of the afternoon. It's all very civilised and laid back. Perfect for a base to explore the surroundings, which include the Abyaneh ancient city on the foothills of Mount Karkas (4,000m), or simply for the thrill of driving past the much talked-about Natanz Nuclear Facility which houses most of Iran's uranium enrichment centrifuges.
History-wise, Kashan cannot be compared to Esfahan or Shiraz. It was, and still is, an oasis town which served as a halfway point between the great cities of many great empires. It has, however retained much of the charm which won the hearts of the Persian elite. Shah Abbas I, the greatest Shah of the Safavid Dynasty chose to be buried here in 1629, instead of his capital of Esfahan. Surely that says something about this place.
Some photos from my walkabouts:
Ok, so not many people have heard of this place. Most give it a miss as they head from Tehran to Esfahan or Shiraz. But it's a wonderfully charming old city where you can take great pleasure in getting lost while weaving your way through its maze of ancient alleyways lined with beautifully restored 19th-century mansions. Its main bazaar is less of a business-first, business-only place like Tehran's behemoth of a commercial site, and more of a place where families go to wander, sit in the caravanserais and chill out.
While in Kashan, you can choose to stay in a centuries-old house, restored of course, which comes with its own courtyard, flowing water features, and a basement to insulate oneself from the heat of the afternoon. It's all very civilised and laid back. Perfect for a base to explore the surroundings, which include the Abyaneh ancient city on the foothills of Mount Karkas (4,000m), or simply for the thrill of driving past the much talked-about Natanz Nuclear Facility which houses most of Iran's uranium enrichment centrifuges.
History-wise, Kashan cannot be compared to Esfahan or Shiraz. It was, and still is, an oasis town which served as a halfway point between the great cities of many great empires. It has, however retained much of the charm which won the hearts of the Persian elite. Shah Abbas I, the greatest Shah of the Safavid Dynasty chose to be buried here in 1629, instead of his capital of Esfahan. Surely that says something about this place.
Some photos from my walkabouts:
An elderly man having a break by the Agha Bozorg Mosque.
The Khan Amin al Dowleh Timche caravanserai in the middle of Kashan's covered bazaar. A tranquil pool under a cavernous dome designed to facilitate the convection of warm air, and to let it out through the vents on the top. Ingenious.
The exterior and interior of the 19th century Khan-e-Boroujerdi mansion.
The exquisitely intricate plasterwork of the external walls of Tabatabei mansion, and stained glass windows from inside its main hall.
The ancient city of Abyaneh.
Incidentally, I overheard a 10-year old asking his father why the houses were all red. And it got me thinking - I can't remember the last time I saw an ancient city completely made out of red clay. They must have had access to a massive source of the iron-oxide infused stuff. And it's not as common as one would think - certainly not as common as the rocky variety.
Check out the bottom photo of hillside dwellings. Remind you of anything?
Shire? Hobbits? Needs a bit of green grass CGI'ed-in, but you get the picture...
Incidentally, I overheard a 10-year old asking his father why the houses were all red. And it got me thinking - I can't remember the last time I saw an ancient city completely made out of red clay. They must have had access to a massive source of the iron-oxide infused stuff. And it's not as common as one would think - certainly not as common as the rocky variety.
Check out the bottom photo of hillside dwellings. Remind you of anything?
Shire? Hobbits? Needs a bit of green grass CGI'ed-in, but you get the picture...
