The Shah-i-Zinda mausoleums in the afternoon sun. Cast against a sombre-grey cemetery, and faded brick structures, the colours of the terracotta tiles explode off the facades. It is absurdly beautiful.
T plus 47 - Samarkand
I've been waiting for this one ever since I started my journey in Shanghai. The very name of this place - Samarkand - evokes images of a mystical faraway land, packed with exotic characters, camels and caravans. For two millennia, grandfathers from East and West would thrill their grandchildren with stories of how both ends of the world met and mingled at this very crossroads. And indeed, how this confluence of people, interests and knowledge spawned new derivatives of their own.
Located at the geographical edge of various great empires, Samarkand changed hands frequently, from the Greeks (3rd Century BC), to the Arabs (8th Century), the Mongols (12th Century) and the Chinese (numerous points in between). It's remarkable to me that this little place in the sun in Central Asia is described in vivid detail in the ancient texts of so many great civilisations. And that Samarkand has played a role in so much of the 2,000 years of shared history between East and West makes it a truly wondrous place to be physically present in.
While the city has had its ups and downs, its peak (and presently preserved state) was during Amir Timur's rule, who made it his capital in the 1370's. As the epicentre of an empire which covered most of Central Asia, Afghanistan, and parts of India and Persia, Samarkand benefited from the inflow of great wealth, and artistic know-how. I found it fascinating that its builders have so seamlessly integrated art, religon (Islam at the time) and learning - the sciences, languages etc. The Registan, for example, is a complex of medressas (or education institutions) and mosques, adorned with some of the most beautiful mosaic known to man. I really don't think there are many places in the world which execute all three elements so convincingly, and so harmoniously.
There's just so much to photograph in Samarkand, but I'll focus on the main sights (Registan, Bibi Khanym Mausoleum, and the Shah-i-Zinda complex). Also a small series on the Old Town and the people of Samarkand.
The Registan - "Sandy Place" in the Uzbek language
I've been waiting for this one ever since I started my journey in Shanghai. The very name of this place - Samarkand - evokes images of a mystical faraway land, packed with exotic characters, camels and caravans. For two millennia, grandfathers from East and West would thrill their grandchildren with stories of how both ends of the world met and mingled at this very crossroads. And indeed, how this confluence of people, interests and knowledge spawned new derivatives of their own.
Located at the geographical edge of various great empires, Samarkand changed hands frequently, from the Greeks (3rd Century BC), to the Arabs (8th Century), the Mongols (12th Century) and the Chinese (numerous points in between). It's remarkable to me that this little place in the sun in Central Asia is described in vivid detail in the ancient texts of so many great civilisations. And that Samarkand has played a role in so much of the 2,000 years of shared history between East and West makes it a truly wondrous place to be physically present in.
While the city has had its ups and downs, its peak (and presently preserved state) was during Amir Timur's rule, who made it his capital in the 1370's. As the epicentre of an empire which covered most of Central Asia, Afghanistan, and parts of India and Persia, Samarkand benefited from the inflow of great wealth, and artistic know-how. I found it fascinating that its builders have so seamlessly integrated art, religon (Islam at the time) and learning - the sciences, languages etc. The Registan, for example, is a complex of medressas (or education institutions) and mosques, adorned with some of the most beautiful mosaic known to man. I really don't think there are many places in the world which execute all three elements so convincingly, and so harmoniously.
There's just so much to photograph in Samarkand, but I'll focus on the main sights (Registan, Bibi Khanym Mausoleum, and the Shah-i-Zinda complex). Also a small series on the Old Town and the people of Samarkand.
The Registan - "Sandy Place" in the Uzbek language
Two alternate views of Registan Square. One in sunshine, the other in the morning light just after a shower. I couldn't decide between the two. I kinda like the reflections in the top pic though.
Top 2 pics: View from Sher Dor (Lion Medressa) of the 8 mini-gateways of the Tilla-Kari Medressa, apparently representing the 8 portals to paradise in Islam.
Bottom pic: The view from the opposite direction - Sher Dor (Lion) Medressa from the arch of Tilla-Kari.
Bottom pic: The view from the opposite direction - Sher Dor (Lion) Medressa from the arch of Tilla-Kari.
Rear-view of Registan - this shows the outer blue dome of Tilla-Kari Medressa.
I hope R and X are still together.
I hope R and X are still together.
Ok, so a lot of people complain about the aggressive restoration done by the Soviets. I guess they had no choice because the buildings were falling apart - they were built on sand, with only a stone platform as a foundation, 800 years ago!
The top pic shows what the Registan looked like prior to restoration. Not super different I suppose.
The bottom pic shows an unrestored portion of the inner wall of the Sher Dor Medressa. Again, some of the tilework has held up pretty well.
The top pic shows what the Registan looked like prior to restoration. Not super different I suppose.
The bottom pic shows an unrestored portion of the inner wall of the Sher Dor Medressa. Again, some of the tilework has held up pretty well.
This was a real highlight for me. The gold-leafed interior of the Tilla Kari mosque. It's so incredibly opulent, but yet intricate at the same time. The dome isn't really a dome. It's a flat ceiling with a tapered design which gives it the optical illusion of a dome. How amazing is that?
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Top pic: Exterior - this is when you wish you had brought a wide angle lens.
Bottom pics: Interior - see the light and dark bricks? The light coloured ones are from the restoration work.
The Bibi-Khanym Mosque is named after Timur's Chinese wife.
Bottom pics: Interior - see the light and dark bricks? The light coloured ones are from the restoration work.
The Bibi-Khanym Mosque is named after Timur's Chinese wife.
The morning sun streaming through the main front portal.
Pre-restoration photo. The mosque was 41m high, and this was pushing the limits of engineering at the time it was built - around 1400. Several earthquakes struck over the centuries and the one in 1897 really finished it off. The entire structure was restored in the 1970's.
The Gur-E-Amir, where Timur and his sons and grandchildren are buried. It's much more modest than the other monuments, but I love how well-proportioned it is.
The Shah-i-Zinda (Avenue of Mausoleums)
Slightly eerie approach through a cemetery. Yes, this was the one which I had to feel my way through to get the night shots posted earlier.
Ok, disclaimer: A lot of Shah-i-Zinda was comprehensively restored in 2005, causing a bit of a kerfuffle in the international community. So not everything you see is original. In fact, most of it is not. BUT they seem to have done a decent job. The bottom pic of is Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum which was left in its original state. Looks pretty similar to the others to my untrained eye.
And finally, some nice people pics
An old couple smiling at each other in front of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque. Awwww.
Scenes from the Old Town, which they've foolishly walled up to keep outsiders from seeing how the locals live. How silly.
Scenes from in and around the Siob Bazaar.
"I hate to tell you this, but I think he's pooped on you".
